I ended my 2024 travels by jumping on a flight to Narita International Airport, landing an hour outside of Tokyo, Japan. My time in the Philippines had come to an end, and I had a little extra time abroad before I was bound to head home for Christmas that year. 

I took a bullet train from Narita to Tokyo’s central hub, Shinjuku Station. Google Maps led me to believe it was a simple transfer, and that I’d soon be on my way to my hostel. I did not know that Shinjuku is the world’s busiest train station, serving over 3.5 million people daily, with over 36 platforms and 200 exits. 

I did not figure out where my train was. I walked an hour to my hostel instead, cold and tired.

This was the chilliest segment of my adventure in Southeast and East Asia. I quickly realized I was no longer visiting beaches in Vietnam and the Philippines, so my tank tops and tees weren’t cutting it. Japan receives more snowfall than anywhere else in the world, which sounds fake, but it’s somehow true. The morning after arriving, I thrifted a sweater – one with a Snoopy print. It was much loved by the primary school kids I worked with later on. 

Moving through Tokyo was one of the most positively isolating experiences I’ve ever had. I didn’t make friends there, but I wasn’t trying to either. I didn’t have a single English conversation with a 7/11 cashier (did you know 7/11 is a Japanese company?). I once heard someone describe Japanese culture as being like an “ant colony” – which actually sort of rang true. You could stop in the middle of the sidewalk in Tokyo and nobody would give you a thought or a glance. Everybody would just swarm around you and continue on their way to work or home. 

I crossed Shibuya Crossing about five times, on purpose, because I thought it was cool. It’s known as the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing with an estimated 2,000-3,000 people crossing at every stoplight cycle. Perhaps you’ve seen it in Lost in Translation or The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift. 

This is also where the akita dog named Hachiko famously waited for his owner every day after his owner had passed away. Hachiko’s statue is a landmark. The original statue was revealed in 1934, with Hachiko himself in attendance. 

I enjoyed exploring Tokyo’s bustling city streets – seeing Mario Kart go-karts zipping by and kawaii-decorated buses. I love Pokémon, so I was excited to visit Pokémon Center Mega Tokyo, the world’s largest Pokémon store. There’s even a design lab where you can design your own Pokémon!

I don’t have to explain how phenomenal the food was, do I? I mean, duh, it’s Japan. I ate ramen every single day, probably multiple times a day, immediately understanding that I was never going to eat Maruchan instant ramen ever again. Another highlight was the Japanese soufflé pancakes with fresh strawberries and thick cream. I would get back on a plane this second to go back and eat more Japanese food.

My last full day in Tokyo concluded with taking an absurdly fast elevator to the top of Tokyo Skytree – Japan’s tallest building. Are you recognizing the theme here? I intentionally arrived at sunset so I could get an even more beautiful view of the city from above. How breathtaking that was. The city skyline blends into the horizon, merging with the orange hues, and the whole experience made me realize how small I am in this world. And why that’s a good thing.

I’d also like to mention that I covered tsukumogami – a Japanese folklore – this month on my Folklore in Every Corner Substack. Check it out!

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